Atelier 7 min read

Forty hours at the Beirut bench

How a single solitaire travels from a loose stone in a paper to the ring a bride wears home from Al-Mansour.

The setting bench at the Beirut workshop, where every Zoughaib solitaire is finished by hand.

The stone arrives first, folded in a diamond paper no larger than a matchbook. Before anyone touches gold, it sits under the loupe for most of a morning — read for colour, for clarity, and for the angle at which it gives back the most light.

Only then does the bench decide the setting. A round brilliant wants four claws, sometimes six; an old-cut stone from a family piece may need a bezel to protect a worn girdle. The decision is made with the stone, never ahead of it.

The mount

The mount is drawn, then carved in wax, then cast in 18k gold. A setter files each claw by eye until it meets the stone with no gap a fingernail could catch. It is slow work — the part of the forty hours no one sees, and the part that decides whether a ring lasts a lifetime.

“A claw should hold the stone the way a hand holds something it doesn’t want to drop.”

Master setter, Beirut workshop

The journey home

Finished, polished and certified, the ring travels by bonded courier to Baghdad. At Al-Mansour it is checked once more under the boutique’s own loupe before it goes into the case — or straight into a box, if a bride is already waiting for it.

Forty hours, three cities, one ring. And a free clean and claw check, at any of our doors, for as long as she wears it.

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